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East bank of Kamo river and Shichijo bridge, Kyoto |
Although my husband Greg and I have visited Japan four
times, everything about the trip we just returned from felt new to me: It was
the first time I took a sketchbook. It all seemed a little familiar, and yet
somehow fresh.
The first half of our trip was spent in Tokyo, Japan’s
largest city and the place most first-time visitors see. Ironically, despite
our multiple visits, we’d hardly spent any time in Tokyo previously, so this
was our first opportunity to become better acquainted with this world-class
city.
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Yanaka cemetery |
The highlight of our Tokyo stay was meeting up with Urban Sketchers Japan for an afternoon
of sketching in the Yanaka neighborhood and its historic cemetery. We followed up
with more sketching over ice cream and tea, and eventually made an evening
visit to Tokyo Tower and then an izakaya
(pub style) dinner – all while sketching, of course! One of the very best
things about being part of Urban Sketchers is being able to connect easily with
other sketchers anywhere on the globe! My thanks to Kumi Matsukawa for organizing a fun day of sketching and eating, and
to all the Tokyo sketchers for their warm welcome and USk camaraderie.
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Yanaka neighborhood street |
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Tokyo Tower at night |
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Tokyo urban sketchers |
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Tokyo sketchers at Yanaka cemetery. From left: Kumi, Tina, Maki, Junel, Atsuko |
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Tokyo sketchers sketching over tea and ice cream. From left: Tina, Maki, Junel, Atsuko, Kumi, Chris |
Ueno Park was a favorite Tokyo spot for both Greg (a
photographer) and me. One reason is that the spacious park gave everyone plenty
of space to play. Although we weren’t feeling particularly oppressed by Tokyo’s
crowds, I imagine that the city’s residents use Ueno Park as a much-needed
respite from the daily crush of people. Another reason is that I found buskers!
While I didn’t generally see musicians or other performers on Tokyo’s sidewalks
as I often do in Seattle, Ueno Park is obviously a popular place for them.
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Sky Tree Tower behind statue at Sensoji Temple, Tokyo |
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An accordion player performs at Ueno Park, Tokyo |
A castle on our must-see list was Himeji. On one gorgeous
day that looked and felt like spring (the temperature in the afternoon got up
to 70 F!), we made a day trip to Himeji-jo, which had been unveiled only
recently after five years of restoration. In fact, on our last Japan visit, we had
made a stop at Himeji only to discover it covered in tarps and scaffolding. It
was fully worth the return trip to see the 800-year-old castle in all its
splendor. Although I sketched it twice (the first time with a fine-point
fountain pen), I prefer the second sketch shown here made with a brush pen that
wouldn’t allow me to get into all the details. I think it conveys more of the
joy and awe we felt that day viewing Himeji-jo’s beauty.
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Himeji castle |
A major goal for this trip was to see (and, for me, to
sketch) Mt. Fuji. We spent one night at Lake Kawaguchi at the foot of Fuji-san,
hoping to see its elusive peak. It appeared only for a few minutes before
ducking behind clouds again. Greg managed to photograph it a few times, but
alas, I didn’t sketch it. (We were both soaking in a mineral bath at the time
of its sighting!) I did, however, try to capture some of the hillside color.
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Hillside surrounding Lake Kawaguchi |
The second leg of our trip was spent in Kyoto. Cosmopolitan
while also retaining old-world charm, the former capital of Japan is one of few
places in the country where you can still occasionally see women dressed in
traditional kimono (either because that’s the way they dress or because they’ve
rented an outfit for the day to enhance their selfie-snapping as they shop). In
Kyoto, I had fun making my share of sketches of pagodas, shrines, temples and
statues of the Buddha as I had expected to. But sometimes I need a reminder
that while I’m always tempted to experience the “big” things when I travel, the
smallest moments often turn out to be the most enjoyable.
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Shinbashi-dori, Gion neighborhood |
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Entrance to Yasaka shrine, Kyoto |
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Statue of the Buddha, Kyoto National Museum |
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Pagoda at Sanjusangen-do, Kyoto |
Walking to the Kamo river a short distance from our rented
townhouse, we discovered an oasis of solitude. Even on a warm weekend
afternoon, the riverbank was nearly deserted – only a few strollers, bike riders and
one or two residents reading or picnicking. The busiest residents were the many
egrets and herons fishing in the shallow water. Filling several sketchbook
pages with those birds, I decided that day on the river was my favorite in
Kyoto.
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Egret and heron fishing on the Kamo river. |
Another example was when we had taken Kyoto’s well-known Philosopher’s
Walk. A tree-lined footpath that takes about a half-hour to finish at a
leisurely pace, it’s most popular in spring when all the cherry blossoms are in
bloom, but November was also beautiful on the sunny afternoon that we were
there. The icing on the cake was unexpectedly finding a busker on the path
playing an unusual lute-like instrument. After several days of day-tripping and rushing through crowds, plunking
myself down on a bench to sketch that busker seemed like the ideal, relaxing
treat.
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Busker on the Philosopher's Walk, Kyoto |
Our fourth visit since 2001, this trip brought different
experiences than the first three, but it ended the same way: Whenever I leave
Japan, it’s with a certain bittersweetness that I am leaving some part of
myself behind. It’s not that I feel I belong there; as a Japanese American, the
U.S. will always be my home. It’s not that the people there are “my tribe”; I
actually have very little in common with Japanese culture and habits. It must
be that my genes stir from recognition of all those people who vaguely resemble
me. My roots don’t necessarily take hold in that foreign soil, yet they sense
the ancestral familiarity that my consciousness can’t quite grasp.
As always, I left without understanding those feelings, but
two things were clear: One is that I know I will continue to visit Japan, again
and again, to reconnect with whatever part of myself I leave behind there. The
other is that preserving Japan in my sketchbook enables me to stay in touch
with that part long after I’m back in Seattle. Page after page, I still feel it
– the home of my ancestors.
Tina, what a lovely post, both in words and in sketches. I, too, sometimes feel that the land of our ancestors has some sort of deep, primal draw. It's a mystery, but also a special connection to otherwise foreign places. Your sketches convey the joy that you were experiencing. It was an added bonus seeing Kumi appear, too.
ReplyDeleteThank you for sharing your blog, you've brought back many memories for me also with your trip. Beside Kyoto, my other favorite place was Nara. Love the sketches Tina.
ReplyDeleteBeautifully eloquent! Your sketches and narrative are wonderfully evocative. Thank you for taking us there, Tina.
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