In November 2017, I returned from a two-week Rajasthan trip happy,
grinning ear to ear and with two sketchbooks brimming cover to cover. I was so productive
with my sketching that it only took me the four days I spent in the frontier
town of Jaisalmer, amidst the majestic twelfth-century World Heritage fort, to fill
my second sketchbook.
Sonar Killa – the Golden Fort – is set in the Thar
desert in northwestern India, less than two-hundred miles from the India-Pakistan
international border. The glitter of the
yellow sandstone walls in the early morning sun is dull and metallic,
reminiscent of the precious metal that the fort is named after. It is as much a
breathtaking sight today for a modern traveler as it must have been to a merchant
plying the silk route when the Mughals ruled India in the fifteenth century.
We had found ourselves a room with a jharokha – an overhanging
enclosed balcony situated on top of the bulwarks, with a sweeping view of the
surrounding town and the landscape. A young scion of the family that has owned
the eight-hundred-year-old haveli – a traditional Indian mansion – for
several generations was responsible for its conversion to a tastefully
decorated boutique hotel. Many such families still own apartments and mansions
on the fort, passed as an inheritance from generation to generation. The fort has
been continuously lived-in since olden times, the narrow streets buzzing with the
sounds and smell of day-to-day life, adding lively charm to the ancient walls.
I took every opportunity I could find to slip out of our room
and situate me in one of the many nooks and crannies of the fort to sketch.
One such early morning sojourn led to the discovery of a portal hidden behind a
carpet-sellers display. The opening led me along a narrow ledge behind a succession of gun-turrets, to a gun-slot where I squeezed beneath the barrel of
a tremendous gun, one that had stood poised to protect the fort for many
centuries.
In Nov 2017, I was deep into the preparation of my Middle
East adventure to travel in the footsteps of probably the original urban
sketcher of them all. The Scottish artist David Roberts had traveled through
Egypt and the Holy Land in 1838-39, to sketch through direct observation, the
landscape mentioned in the Bible, the first time such an ambitious project
was being undertaken. Looking back at my sketches of Jaisalmer, I notice I had
already started experimenting with David Roberts’ inimitable style –
juxtaposing locals in colorful garb against monumental architecture. Fortunately,
psychedelic colors and majestic architecture are both to be found in abundance
in Rajasthan.
My wife Monica and I bivouacked on the sand dunes of Thar
under a star-studded sky. Our guide, a local villager with mustache thicker
than my thumb, had cooked a hardy meal for us over ambers plucked from the
roaring campfire. After serving us the piping hot daal-baati – crisp wheat
balls baked and then mixed with spicy lentils, doused with dollops of ghee,
the guide used an empty five-gallon plastic water jug as a banjo to provide
beats to the folk songs he sang for us. On our way back, our jeep got stuck in
the sand. Leaving the driver to wrestle with it, Monica and I hiked a dune to
arrive at an ancient cemetery with the fort gleaming on the horizon.
My goal for the trip was plenty of line-and-wash - “wash
where there are no lines and lines where no wash is needed”. As I sat down for sketching, I found myself
drawn to the strong architectural lines and the squiggly curves of the Devanagari
script (and Rajput mustaches.) I felt
like I had barely scratched the surface of Jaisalmer in the four days I was
there. It is only a matter of time, I am sure before I go back to Jaisalmer,
which I already consider in my favorite top 5 walled cities of the world.
Sunil Shinde lives in Seattle with his wife, two daughters, and
his golden retriever, Oscar. He has been an ardent urban sketcher since 2013. When
he is not traveling, he is building an AI-based population health product in
stealth mode. You can see his sketches here.
