Resurrecting the Western Flyer

The Western Flyer  - John Steinbeck's escape into environmental science

The shipyard next to Boat Haven Marina in Port Townsend is a health and fitness clinic for big boats. The Hawaiian Chieftan sits on drydock. Rumor has it that Pete Townsend’s yacht comes in for check-ups. Big cabin cruisers, a shiny  sky-blue 80 foot sailing yacht, a ginormous rusty metal fishing boat all scatter the boatyard. The star of the show these days, however, is the Western Flyer.

This eighty foot wooden former sardine fishing vessel, originally named the Gemini, was the home of authorJohn Steinbeck and biologist Ed Ricketts back in 1940 when they embarked on their 4-month long journey documented in the book Sea of Cortez: A Leisurely Journal of Travel and Research. "The boat itself is an historic artifact—"a symbol of adventure, freedom, camaraderie, or perhaps even refuge for John Steinbeck," (Western Flyer Foundation) who was at the time under public attack for his novel Grapes of Wrath and it’s depiction of America during the depression.

Steinbeck and  Ricketts hired Anton "Tony" Berry and his fishing vessel. Once in the Sea of Cortez, habitat to an unmatched collection of sea flora and fauna, Steinbeck’s attention was fastened to what he saw. He documented the unqualified inter-dependence of sea-life, unwittingly writing the first supplementary textbook for the study of ecology. The book documents the scientific findings and tells the story through Steinbeck’s narrative.

Built in 1937 as a purse seiner, the Western Flyer, first fished for sardines out of Monterey Bay. After the epic journey documented in the book it returned to Monterey and continued sardine fishing until the early 50’s when it went to Alaska as a fishing vessel. In the 60’s it fished in northwest waters, then caught crabs in the 70’s. It changed hands several times during the next few decades ending up in Anacortes where it hauled salmon to canneries.

In 2013 it was salvaged from the dregs of Puget Sound where it had sunk twice during the previous winter. Several entrepreneurs made plans to revive it for moneymaking purposes. Finally in 2015 it was purchased by a geologist, John Gregg, with the dream to restore the vessel exactly as it had been when it made the historic voyage that became the birth of today’s science of ecology.

It’s an awesome sight to see the work being done by Port Townsend Shipwrights Co-Op to restore the boat to its original state. Remnants of the original hull are stacked near the warehouse. The skilled boat builders work long hours, steaming wooden planks to shape the boat’s hull. Countless school field traipse through the shipyard learning about the history of the boat and it’s role in exposing our planetary interdependence. The owners expect the ship to be finished in 2020 and hope to use it as a floating classroom for the study of marine biology. If you get a chance to visit Port Townsend check it out. The site is open to the public and welcomes visitors.

picnic on Whidbey

I had a really sweet opportunity to go to Whidbey Island recently (my first time out here!). I was hired by a Seattleite who wanted someone to document her classy bachelorette party at this amazing house on open prairie land near Coupeville. I jumped on my 180cc scooter at 7 am and rode up to the Mulkiteo ferry through the rain. Luckily the weather was much clearer on Whidbey. This was by far the longest distance I've gone by myself on the scooter so far.

First thing I had to do was to document the picnic. All 12 of the ladies had dressed up in 1920s-esque clothing and even rented period hats from a costumer. People were coming and going, so I had to improvise this one. I started by drawing the table and placing a few people near the bottom of the page (the front) and working towards the back of the page more or less. Somehow I fit everyone in!

After this, I had to sketch all 12 of the women on their own in 10 minute poses. Since it's not technically urban sketch I won't post them here. But it was fun to chat with everyone one on one! 

I would love if more people hired me to do live gigs like this one. There's so much potential for wedding sketching documentation - as we know, drawing can capture so much that cameras can't. 

At this point it was kind of late and I was thinking about the long distance I had to go home. But the host invited me to stay the night and I had gotten really good vibes from everyone, so I decided to take her up on it and crash on the couch. This allowed me to go out to Ebey's Landing with the party, a place I've wanted to see for a while. 

A simple watercolor sketch of the ridge trail above the recognizable 45˙ slope. I chose to paint instead of hike...was it the right choice? idk.

I was feeling socially exhausted so I went back to the house while the party went out to dinner in town. I sketched another view from the house at sunset and painted it in with a limited palette of sap green/orange/quin rose.

I left early the next morning to catch an early ferry to Port Townsend, another place I've heard great things about but hadn't made it out to see (owning that scooter has really opened up my world). Well it did not disappoint! So much great architecture. Alas I had to be back in the city by the afternoon so I couldn't explore as much as I wanted to, but I managed one ~1 hr sketch of the main street by the water. A busker was playing nearby, it was a beautiful morning. 

Visiting USk PT

During a previous visit, I'd walked through the Palace Hotel in Port Townsend but didn't take the time to sketch there.  When the Urban Sketchers Port Townsend announced a Wednesday outing there, I thought it would be a good time to visit.

I convinced Himself to go with so we'd have a chance to stay together at the Chevy Chase Beach Cabins.   One we arrived about 3:30 pm we got settled into our small cabin and we took a walk around the property.  Here's our charming cabin with a view.



It was sunset and I quickly did a simple sketch of the view from the hill above the beach.



On Wednesday morning, I went in to town to join the sketchers. It was good to meet the group and a fun time sketching this historic location.

With so many choices, it was difficult to settle on a subject.  I liked the globe and lamp that Mel was sketching, so I composed an alternate view, including him.



Then I sat on the stairs to sketch the entry door used by hotel guests.



Sharing sketches:



Group photo taken by one of the others.

Quilcene, WA

I missed the sketchouting last Sunday because I was cleaning our house.  This week we have family in town and for the last two days were staying at a friend's cabin on Dabob Bay in Quilcene.  It was beautiful and relaxing.  We had a seafood fest last night... Clam chowder, Clam linguini,  Crab and oysters on the halfshell..all harvested by us from the bay.  The one thing you can't depend on is Salmon.  Although they were jumping...you really have to master how to fish for salmon.  Of course this morning before our family was leaving my husband caught a 24" salmon. 

Here are a couple of sketches I did.  If you want to see more you can look at my blog.

Point Hudson Marina and Resort, Port Townsend, WA

Clamming at Dabob Bay